CHAPTER TWO: VOLCÁN BARÚ - PANAMA

“I have done my best", that is about all the philosophy of living that one needs.

Lin-yutang

Basic Mountain Beta

The highest point in Panama is Volcán Barú at. 11,401 ft. (3,474m) above sea level.

Lat/Lon: N 8° 48'; and W82° 33'

Ranking of Country High Points in the Western Hemisphere: Volcán Barú is ranked 14 of the 55 country high points in the Americas.

Ranking of Country High Points in Central America: Volcán Barú is the 3rd highest of the seven Central American country high points.

Downtown Boquete at the base of Volcán Barú

Difficulty Scale (0-10): 4

Volcán Barú is another one of the South American country high points that can either be climbed in one very long day, or two more enjoyable days. The route is well-marked, very straightforward, well traveled and there is no chance of wandering off-route. But, like other high places in Central America, the wind can howl, the rain can be cold and driving, the visibility can drop to a few feet in front of your nose, and the weather can shift from sunny to nasty in no time, so be prepared.

Interest and Intrigue Scale (0-10): Mountain – 2; Surrounding Area - 9

To be honest, the most interesting thing about climbing Volcán Barú is the town of Boquete at the base of the mountain. Boquete is a beautiful and busy little tourist town of about 20,000 people in the western highlands of Panama in the province of Chiriqui. The town is nestled in a beautifully lush valley surrounded by mountains and coffee plantations. It has become a very popular destination for hiking, bird watching, eco-tourism, coffee plantation tours, and even white water rafting. The photogenic summit of Volcán Barú is covered with ugly radio and television towers; however, I was told that one can see both the Pacific and Caribbean Oceans from the summit on a clear day. This wasn’t the case for me. So, on the “interest and intrigue scale” the climb of Volcán Barú is a 2, but Boquete is a 9 or 10.

Local Food that you Have to Try:

Panamanian cuisine is similar in many ways to that of other Latin American countries but is not particularly spicy. Traditional Panamanian cuisine is tasty but can be a little repetitive given that virtually every meal is based around a popular side dish called arroz con guandu made up of coconut, rice, and beans and served along with fried green plantains called patacones. The meat dish (if there is one) is the thing that changes. Tortillas are another common item, although they are different from other countries. The tortillas in Panama are thicker and deep-fried. Typically items are then placed on top of the tortilla to make a meal. It is common to use eggs, cheese, beans, or anything else tasty to make a good morning meal.

Other favorite foods in Panama include:

Corvina: A very common fish used in many places/meals throughout Panama. In the US and Canada, corvina is known as sea bass. Corvina is a mild tasting fish common in many recipes. Corvina is also commonly used in ceviche (a popular seafood dish found in the coastal regions of Panama that is made from raw fish marinated in citrus juices such as lemon and lime and spiced with chili peppers).

Sancocho: If you are looking for a typical dish, Sancocho could be it. Found everywhere in Panama, Sancocho is a type of chicken soup.

Hojaldras: These are commonly referred to as Panamanian Doughnuts. Essentially they are dough that is deep fried and then covered with sugar on top. A bag of hojaldras are a great snack to bring up Volcán Barú to munch on along the trail or with breakfast coffee.

Brief Country Overview

Panama, officially the Republic of Panama, is the southernmost country on the Central American isthmus that connects North and South America. Panama is bordered by Costa Rica to the northwest and Columbia to the southeast, and is the home of the Panama Canal. Panama is defined by its extensive 3,382 mile coastline is also home to numerous ports, fishing communities, beaches, and incredibly bio-diverse rain forests.

Population

Panama is the 6th most populous country in Central America (out of seven countries) with a population of 3,454,000 (2010 estimate). Panama is the 4th largest country in Central America (30,193 sq. miles) which is slightly smaller than the state of South Carolina), and has the 2nd lowest population density, tied with Nicaragua (114 people per square mi.). The largest city is the country’s capital, Panama City with over 1,273,000 residents (metro population) and contains almost one-half of the country’s overall population.

Most Panamanians are ethnically of Mestizo descent, (mixed Spanish, indigenous, Chinese, and West Indian) -70%, followed by mixed West Indian descent - 14%, Caucasian - 10%, Amerindian - 6%.

Main street Boquete, Panama.

Economy

The economy of Panama is a fully dollarized free market economy with a history of low inflation. The leading exports for Panama are bananas, shrimp, sugar, coffee, and clothing. However, Panama's economy is based primarily on a well-developed services sector that accounts for nearly 80% of its GDP. Services include the Panama Canal, banking, the Colón Free Trade Zone, insurance, container ports, and flagship registry. The country's industry includes, manufacturing of aircraft spare parts, cements, drinks, adhesives, and textiles. The hand-over of the canal and military installations by the U.S. has given rise to many new construction projects.

Language and Literacy

Spanish is the official language of Panama, however 14% of Panamanians (predominantly West Indians) speak English as their native tongue. There are eight indigenous languages spoken in Panama by approximately 280,000 people. The largest indigenous language group is Kuna with over 50,000 speakers. The Literacy rate in Panama is 92.6%.

Climate

Located less than 9 degrees north of the equator, most of Panama enjoys temperatures that are fairly consistent year round, with daytime temperatures in the 90s and nighttime around 70, with little seasonal variation. Panama has a tropical climate, but temperatures change dramatically between the coasts and low lands to the mountainous regions like Boquete.

Geography/Terrain

Panama’s terrain includes an interior consisting of mostly steep, rugged mountains and dissected, upland plains; coastal areas made up largely of plains and rolling hills; and the tropical coastal lowlands.

The fertile coffee growing plantations of the Boquete valley.

Recreation and Tourist Attractions

From a recreational standpoint, Panama is best known for its diversity both in terms of flora and fauna, and scenic attractions. In a few short days, one can visit beaches on two different oceans, mountains, rain forests, learn about and visit Native cultures and villages, and take advantage of a vibrant urban life. The ease of travel and wide array of experiences are making Panama one of the most attractive emerging tourism destinations in the world. Arthur Frommer's Budget Travel Magazine calls Panama, “One of the Top 10 Budget Destinations for 2009.”

As the isthmus connecting two massive continents, Panama's flora and fauna are incredibly diverse. For example, Panama was recently named the country with the most bird species in the world with over 900. Panama has the largest rainforest in the Western Hemisphere outside the Amazon Basin and contains over 10,000 different plants species, including 1,200 varieties of orchids, 678 ferns and more than 1,500 varieties of trees.

Some specific points of interest include:

- El Valle - part of the Chiriqui Highlands. A charming little town nestled in the second biggest inhabited volcanic caldera (a volcanic feature that is formed by the collapse of land following a volcanic eruption) in the world. El Valle boasts an all-year spring-like climate, amazing biodiversity, and a wide selection of hotels and restaurants among others.

- Chiriqui Lowlands - Coastal area on the Gulf of Chiriquí, has some of the best sport fishing in Central America.

- Coiba National Marine Park - is a UNESCO World Heritage site known for rare pelagic (surface) fish.

The most popular time to travel to Panama is December through March, when the lack of humidity and nearly zero percent chance of rain make it ideal for travelers.

Currency

The official paper currency is the U.S. dollar, which is accepted everywhere in Panama. The Panamanian Balboa (B) = 100 centesimos and has the rate of B1 = US$1. The centesimos coins are of identical size, denomination, and metal as U.S. coins, and the coins of both nations are used here interchangeably. If you have U.S. dollars or U.S. dollar-denomination traveler's checks, then there is no need to exchange currency.

Interesting Panama Facts

Explored and settled by the Spanish in the 16th century, Panama broke with Spain in 1821 and joined a union of Nueva Granada, Ecuador, and Venezuela - named the Republic of Gran Colombia. When the latter dissolved in 1830, Panama remained part of Colombia. With US backing, Panama seceded from Colombia in 1903.

Bananas are the leading export, followed by shrimp, sugar, coffee, and...